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The paintings of Italian-born artist Agostino Brunias, who made a profession of depicting the island in subdued, stylized settings that covered up the harsh realities of colonial control, were my first visual introduction to Dominica. However, as soon as I step onto its winding roads, which begin to twist shortly after I arrive, it becomes evident that this region, which is situated in the center of the Lesser Antilles’ curve, is anything but tame. The two-toned leaves of its bois canot trees, which change color from green to white when they sway in the wind, shimmer and bristle with the power of the volcano. It lulls with the erratic sound of its numerous waterfalls, scatters rainbows haphazardly across its breathtaking horizons, and enchants from the depths with its vibrant coral reefs. And it roars come storm season.
The indigenous Kalinago people of Dominica survived invasion by the French and British, who imposed slavery on the Africans who now make up four-fifths of the island’s population and left a linguistic legacy of English and French-based Creole, by mastering the lush tropical rainforest that covers more than 60% of the island. If you visit Trinidad for roti and Jamaica for jerk, you should travel to Dominica for green things like bush rum and flower teas. There are a ton of medicinal herbs in the forest.
The Jungle Bay Dominica resort, located smack dab in the center of the Soufrière jungles, leans into nature instead, maybe realizing the futility of fighting against the earth’s generosity. When I finally get there, the kitchen is closed. Joanne Hilaire, the operations manager, tells me that they never let guests go hungry, though, so I can feel the warmth of Dominica’s welcome. The cook is preparing an excellently stewed dish of beans with taro, rice, and plantain for our late dinner, off the menu, while I have a refreshing ginger-lime cocktail that is a local favorite. When I wake up the following morning, I find that my villa’s doors open onto a private veranda that faces southwest toward Soufrière Bay, where the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean converge. I let the light wake me for the remainder of my stay by leaving my blinds open.
GRANDPARENTS! WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LOVING A GRANDKID AND LOVING YOUR OWN CHILD?
Oh, the magic of grandparenthood! It’s a feeling that’s hard to put into words, isn’t it? You’ve captured it beautifully.
Before I became a grandparent, just like you, I thought my heart was full to bursting with love for my children. Every milestone, every challenge, every moment was etched into my soul. I poured everything I had into raising them, and the love I felt was a force of nature.
Then, my grandchild arrived. And it was like discovering a hidden room in my heart, a room filled with pure, unadulterated joy. There’s a lightness to it, a carefree delight that’s different from the all-consuming love you have for your own children.
It’s true, there’s no pressure of daily discipline, no constant worry about every little thing. You get to be the fun one, the one who whispers secrets and indulges in silly games. You’re the purveyor of extra treats and the safe haven for whispered worries.
For me, the difference lies in the perspective. With my children, I was building their future, guiding them through the complexities of life. It was a hands-on, deeply involved kind of love. But with my grandchildren, I get to savor the present moment. I get to witness their wonder and joy without the weight of responsibility.
It’s a love that’s just as profound, but it’s seasoned with wisdom and a sense of detachment. I can appreciate the fleeting moments of childhood with a deeper understanding, knowing how quickly they pass.
It’s like watching a beautiful play unfold, knowing you’ve played your part in setting the stage, but now you get to sit back and enjoy the performance.
And yes, absolutely, I feel the same! It’s a love that’s both familiar and utterly new, a gift that keeps on giving. It’s a love that proves the heart truly does have endless room to grow.
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